Dijana Grgić enjoys some marvellous Malvasias and other local treats at the event held on the Istrian peninsula, which is fast becoming a Croatian classic.
The 30th anniversary of Vinistra saw exhibition spaces adorned with the colours of the new logo, which is in the shape of a bunch of grapes, and the different sizes of the berries symbolise the unity of Istrian winemakers. It is precisely this togetherness that has made Vinistra stand out for years as an association that should be an example to everyone in Croatia, but also outside it. By working together, the winemakers of Istria have managed to highlight all the beauty of this rich wine region and position Istria and Croatia on the world wine scene as a recognised wine destination.
This annual exhibition of wine and winemaking technology was held this year from 10th to 12th May, in Poreč, Istria. Žatika Hall, in which it was held, looked modern and in line with expectations, which came as no surprise as Vinistra has been setting high standards for years and everything about it looked great. However, the 2023 vintage, which was in focus at the event, proved anything but plain sailing regarding the wines of this pretty peninsula.
A challenging year produced excellent fresh Malvasias
The variety of Malvasia (also known as Malvazija Istarska and Malvasia Istriana, which differentiates it from other non-related Malvasias from around the winemaking world) styles presented at the event was especially pleasing. More than 80 winemakers presented their wines, and it is a difficult task to single out some that particularly impressed me. Certainly, I must send praise and congratulations to all Istrian winemakers, because in the coming season tourists will be offered a rich range of excellent wines. From sparkling wines, fresh Malvasias to oaked and dessert wines, each one is different and special in its own way. There were also excellent Teran, Borgonja, but also many international varieties.
Last year was difficult, with above-average temperatures during spring and summer, but also a prolonged rainy period, especially in the middle and at the end of the summer. September and October had above-average temperatures, but very little rain, so the harvest was a little later. The result is nevertheless pleasantly vibrant and varietally-pure Malvasias that are medium- to full-bodied with pronounced aromatics. Indeed, a tough vintage seems to produce the best wines.
Zesty Malvasias could be tasted at all exhibition locations, but there were a few that particularly caught my attention. The platinum award for fresh Malvasia from the recently held ‘World of Malvasia’ competition came from the Bastian winery, after it scooped two gold medals. This is a winery that has been showing great potential for some time. Continuity in quality is something consumers value and reward. Fresh Malvasia Bastian is a beautiful, rounded wine with prominent aromatics and crispiness. A floral-fruity profile, purity and lovely acids make this wine extremely enjoyable.
Kadum Malvasia 2023 proved its quality at the same aforementioned competition. This delicious, medium-bodied wine has a lovely zestiness, with pronounced aromas, and is long and very enjoyable. It should be mentioned that Ivan Kadum also produces an excellent sparkling wine from White Teran and Malvasia (in the ratio of 70% and 30%).
New wine gems
The wineries of Poleis and Bernobić (Denis Bernobić) should also be highlighted, as they welcomed us as standard bearers of what Vinistra shows, which is togetherness. Poleis’ fresh Malvasia conquers at first with its beautiful aromas and liveliness – a dry and delicious wine with gentle acids.
Bernobić bowled me over with its oaked Malvasia, which shows all the beauty of this variety, but also how much oak can additionally round out the aromas and bring complexity to the wine. From this winery, it would be unfair not to mention Borgonja, a variety that is somewhat neglected, but produces stunningly subtle and delicate red wines with pronounced fruitiness and zestiness.
Two relatively young wineries also caught my attention. At previous festivals, I had the opportunity to taste the wines of Juričić winery, so I visited them again. A gorgeous wine story of young people that will be written about. Its fresh Malvasia has a dominant floral-fruity scent with pronounced freshness. It’s a full-bodied and well-balanced wine. The sparkling wine from this winery is also exciting.
Enoist is a winery that I encountered for the first time at this year’s Vinistra, but I believe that we will also hear and write about them in the future.
Templara: the crowning glory of the work of the Rossi winery
If I had to single out a wine that especially delighted me, it would be Templara from Rossi winery. Templara is the summit of their dedicated work, it is a reflection of the terroir of a unique location, but also the nicest tribute to the Istrian Templars, who from the 12th to the 14th centuries had their headquarters in Božje polje, near the church of St. Mary, in Vižinada. It comes from the best locations in the Mirna valley, from the Monte d’Oro vineyard, which is located at 270 metres above sea level. Grape variety
Templara is crystal clear, straw yellow in colour, with aromas of acacia flowers, notes of ripe apple, apricot, bread crust, vanilla and white pepper. It is harmonious and rounded with moderate freshness. A wine that charms anew every time you taste it.
Vinistra has set the bar high, but I’m sure the excellence will be maintained in the coming years. Istrian winemakers are a perfect example of how dedicated work and togetherness can do a lot. It can be concluded that it’s a shame that they have this kind of event only once a year. The atmosphere in Žatika Hall was great, with a lot of positive energy, wonderful people and fantastic wines making this weekend unforgettable. We are already impatiently waiting for the next Vinistra.
Photos by: Merlo de Graia