Sitting at a one-kilometer long Super Tuscan table, Filippo Magnani celebrates three decades of the daring DOC, which shook up the wine world for ever, and continues to set the highest of standards. He also gets in a sneak preview of the 2022 vintage.
On September 4, 2024, Bolgheri, the small yet iconic wine region on the Tuscan coast, commemorated a significant milestone: 30 years of the Bolgheri and Bolgheri Sassicaia Denomination of Origin Control (DOC). This memorable evening, hosted along the breathtaking Viale dei Cipressi, exemplified Bolgheri’s commitment to wine excellence and its standing as a global icon of Italian viticulture.
The event, named the ‘Dinner of the thousand,’ was a continuation of the first successful edition in 2021, organized by the Consortium of Bolgheri and Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC Wines. The vision of this dinner underscores the unity of intent and teamwork among producers, who have elevated Bolgheri wines to international prominence. Albiera Antinori, president of the consortium, warmly welcomed guests, expressing pride in the region’s achievements. Over the last three decades, Bolgheri has established itself among the world’s most celebrated wine regions. The evening’s setting, the Viale dei Cipressi — planted by Guidalberto della Gherardesca in 1832 and immortalized by poet Giosuè Carducci — further amplified the grandeur of the event. Guests enjoyed an exceptional dinner along a one-kilometer table, surrounded by the stunning cypress trees of the Viale dei Cipressi.
En Primeur: a first taste of Bolgheri’s best
The finest DOC wines, including en primeur selections from 74 producers, flowed freely throughout the night. My day began with a tasting at the headquarters of the consorzio, attended by select Italian and international wine writers. The afternoon featured a preview of the Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2022 vintage — a rare opportunity, as the tasting occurred nearly four months before the vintage’s market release. The wines from 2022 exhibited lovely fruit and aromatic intensity. Natural acidity ensured freshness and fragrance. Most wines presented graceful balance from start to finish, though some had softer tannins, a youthful quality typical of early fullness.
The unique terroir that defines Bolgheri’s wines
The celebration of Bolgheri’s 30 years as a DOC also highlights the region’s natural advantages. Bolgheri’s amphitheater-like setting, nestled between the Mediterranean Sea and the hills, provides ideal conditions for grape growing, with diverse soils and a temperate coastal climate. The intricate mix of sandy, clay-sandy, and gravelly soils serves as a unique foundation for producing some of Italy’s most prestigious wines. The consortium’s dedication to preserving this terroir, bolstered by rigorous research, has cemented Bolgheri’s status as one of the world’s most sought-after wine regions. Today, Bolgheri’s vineyards span 1,350 hectares.
A small jewel surrounded by the Mediterranean coast
The DOC Bolgheri area is bounded by the municipality of Castagneto Carducci, and is a compact wine region stretching 13 kilometers from north to south and about 7 kilometers from west to east. Totaling 1,359 hectares of vineyards, the area sits between 10 and 380 meters above sea level. Bolgheri is enveloped by the “Macchia Mediterranea,” a dense green coastal forest. The amphitheater of Bolgheri is perpetually sunlit and aerated by sea breezes from the Tuscan archipelago, fostering wine with freshness and elegance.
A standout feature is the diverse soil composition—sandy soils near the sea, clay-sandy alluvial soils, clay-silty soils in foothill vineyards, and gravelly soils in the hills of the Colline Metallifere. To deepen understanding of the terroir, the consorzio has conducted a decade-long zoning study, analyzing the potential of each type of soil.
Innovative tradition: Bolgheri’s ongoing evolution
Bolgheri’s success has been driven by a shared vision of quality and innovation among its producers. The region has continued evolving, adapting wine regulations to meet modern tastes while maintaining a high standard.
Among the historic Tuscan wine regions, Bolgheri stands out as a young yet esteemed district. Red wine production in Bolgheri began around the 1940s, with the visionary Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planting French varietals, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, on his estate Tenuta San Guido. The first real success came with the 1968 vintage of Sassicaia, a blend of these two varietals, later hailed as one of the world’s finest wines.
Initially known for local white and rosé wines, Bolgheri’s path changed following the pioneering success of Tenuta San Guido. In the mid-1980s, Bolgheri emerged as a red wine powerhouse, producing “Super Tuscans” that attracted global acclaim. This movement led to the first DOC Bolgheri red wine regulation in 1994, along with a subzone for Sassicaia. The DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia’s official recognition in 2013 was significant, as it became the only Italian appellation dedicated to a single estate and wine.
Bolgheri continues to innovate under the pioneering spirit of its producers. A recent update in the wine regulations will soon become effective. These changes enhance the base ampelographic for Bolgheri DOC white wines, allowing more Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, and Vermentino. Currently, Bolgheri produces three DOC red wine types: DOC Bolgheri Rosso, DOC Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia, along with DOC Rosato (rosé) and two DOC Bianco (white) designations.
Bolgheri: A haven for wine enthusiasts
Bolgheri’s prominence has also made it a magnet for wine tourism. Over the last two decades, wine estates have embraced hospitality, offering visitors a chance to experience the region’s beauty and celebrated wines. Whether exploring the vineyards or tasting the wines, Bolgheri combines tradition, innovation, and natural beauty, attracting wine lovers from around the world.
As the evening drew to a close, the significance of Bolgheri’s journey over the past 30 years was unmistakable. From humble beginnings to its position as a wine powerhouse, Bolgheri’s commitment to quality and deep connection to the land remain as inspiring as ever.
An iconic wine destination with unique charm
In the past 20 years, Bolgheri’s wine tourism has blossomed, with international travelers now considering it a must-visit destination. The early 1990s saw just a few estates open to visitors, but today, nearly all the cellars welcome wine enthusiasts and professionals alike. A range of hospitality options now exist, from small family-owned properties to legendary wineries.
The DOC’s philosophy of freedom allows each winery to express a unique relationship with the environment, fostering a sense of “diversity” in natural elements. Bolgheri’s landscape captivates the senses, with its perfumes, flavors, and picturesque villages in perfect harmony with the surroundings. The land gracefully transitions from gentle hills to a breathtaking coastal reserve, enhancing the experience of its great wines.
The diversity of Bolgheri: A land of flavor and tradition
Bolgheri offers a rich culinary scene, from family-style and traditional cooking to gourmet dining. The region provides diverse dining experiences, whether savoring countryside dishes of meat and vegetables or fresh seafood by the coast. Beyond Bolgheri’s town walls, ancient hilltop villages add to the experience, with artisan boutiques, open-air markets, and cozy accommodations that capture the authentic, serene Tuscan lifestyle.