Nicole Wolbers discovers how the magical Mediterranean island, which is renowned for its centuries-old wine tradition, is preparing for a bubbly future.
Sardinia’s winemaking history is impressively ancient, dating back to the Nuragic civilization around 1500 BC. Furthermore, recent archaeological findings suggest that Sardinia may be the oldest known wine-producing region in Europe. The Bronze Age Nuragic people cultivated grapes and produced wine, as evidenced by preserved grape seeds and remains of wine presses, according to Agenzia Laore Sardegna.
The island possesses unique terroir — a mix of altitude, position, and exposure. Soils vary from granite, volcanic, sand to limestone. The Mediterranean climate, with mild winters, hot summers and constant cooling breezes, provides ideal conditions for growing high quality grapes. Sardinia boasts 19 DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) wines, such as Alghero DOC, and one DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) wine, Vermentino di Gallura. To understand recent developments, it is worth looking back:
Sardinia’s cultural and economic impacts
Over the centuries, various conquerors brought their grape varieties to the island, resulting in a rich wine landscape dominated by indigenous varieties. Let’s have a brief look at the most influential aspects:
- The Nuragic era: The cultivation of grapes such as Cannonau, one of the oldest in the Mediterranean, was already widespread in this period.
- Phoenician influence: The Phoenicians introduced vines such as Nuragus and Vernaccia, which became indigenous to Sardinia.
- Much of Sardinia’s modern viticultural history has been influenced by the Spanish, or rather Catalans. This period saw the introduction of varieties such as Turbato, Bovale Sardo (Graciano), Bovale Grande (Mazuelo) and Cannonau (Garnacha).
- In the last century, the revival of old grape varieties began: there has been a renewed focus on quality and indigenous grape varieties. Notable wines include Vermentino, which has become the leading variety in terms of both quantity and quality.
Today, like everywhere else, Sardinia is experiencing a boom in the planting of international varieties such as Chardonnay and Merlot. Interestingly, the wine industry is dominated by cooperatives. There are a few wineries such as Sella & Mosca, founded in 1899, which is the oldest winery in continuous operation in Sardinia. Argiolas is another prominent winery, known for its Turriga blend of Cannonau and Carignano.
Sardinian wines are not only part of the island’s cultural heritage, but they also contribute to its economy. Cannonau, for example, is deeply rooted in Sardinian culture and is renowned for its high antioxidant content, which some have linked to the longevity of the island’s inhabitants. The island’s wines are exported all over the world and appreciated for their unique characteristics.
Sardinia — where tradition meets bubbles
Although Sardinia is traditionally known for its red wines, white wine production is on the rise. According to Agenzia Laore Sardegna, by 2022, 52% of the island’s wine production was white, with an increasing trend. The focus is on indigenous white grape varieties, recognizing their aromatic potential. This trend is fuelled by tourist demand for lighter styles, such as white wine, as well as refreshing sparkling wines.
The Mediterranean climate, with its cooling sea breezes, also creates excellent conditions for growing grapes suitable for sparkling wine production. The differences in temperature between day and night, especially in the hilly areas, favour a slow and even ripening of the grapes, while maintaining a good acidity level, which is essential for the production of fresh and lively sparkling wines.
Both the traditional method and the Charmat method are used, resulting in different wine characteristics, even from the same grape variety. The latter is also called Metodo Martinotti and is a highly recognized production method in Italy. At least 85% of the specified grape variety must be present in the wine. Sardinian sparkling wines have a fine, well-balanced acidity and a distinct — often subtle, depending on the production method — fruity aromatic character.
Sardinia’s promising sparkling grape varieties
Vermentino, although of Spanish origin, flourishes in Sardinia. This variety, well adapted to the island’s environment, is at the forefront of sparkling wine production. It is elegant, with fine bubbles, making crisp white wines with floral, green apple and citrus aromas, usually produced as Vermentino di Sardegna DOC. Dry sparkling versions are also found within Vermentino di Gallura, Sardinia’s only DOCG appellation. Other regional white grape varieties such as Torbato and Nuragus are gaining more attention. Sparkling wines can be sold as Spumante (e.g. Isola dei Nuraghi IGT, Vermentino Spumante) or as DOC appellation wines, depending on the production rules.
Only grown in the Alghero DOC area, Torbato has a unique profile with complex notes of dried fruit. The Sella & Mosca winery has started to revive this almost extinct grape. In fact, they are the only producers. Torbato is ideal for sparkling wines because it’s neutral in aroma and flavour and has high natural acidity. It also balances yeasty flavours well and has ageing potential. There’s a lot to expect from Torbato in the future. Interestingly, even the red grape Cagnulari, known as a still wine for its wild berry character, spicy notes and balsamic accents, is sometimes used for sparkling wine.
Sardinian sparklers are often slightly salty due to the island’s location, which adds a pleasant minerality to the wines, which are often produced in Brut or Extra Dry styles. It’s no surprise that these sparkling wines are an excellent accompaniment to local cuisine, such as piquant hard cheeses, soft ricotta mustia and salami. The light, sparkling reds, similar to Lambrusco, are perfect with grilled meats or pizza. International grape varieties such as Chardonnay are typically used in blends, with the acidity and ageing potential of Chardonnay complementing the local cuvée.
An island with an effervescent future
A young and promising wine category in Sardinia, the island’s sparkling wine production builds on regional traditions by focusing on indigenous grape varieties while embracing innovation. Wineries such as Santa Maria La Palma are experimenting with the effects of underwater ageing on the development of sparkling wines. Wines made by the traditional method are being aged for years to explore the potential of grape varieties for extended yeast ageing. Blends are being reinterpreted with the help of international grape varieties. Sardinian sparkling wines, with their own distinctive profile, are set to become a strong alternative to other Spumante from Italy’s better-known sparkling wine regions.
Wine Recommendations
- Sella & Mosca Alghero Torbato Brut: Sella & Mosca, Sardinia’s oldest continuously operating winery, was founded in 1899. Its La Cala Vermentino redefined the style of Sardinian white wines in the 1970s. This fine, elegant Torbato Blanc de Blanc (vintage 2022) offers ripe fruit flavours of apricot and grape, balanced by harmonious acidity and freshness. The fine, lively bubbles make it a fantastic all-rounder!
- Tenute Delogu Cagnulari Isola dei Nuraghi IGT: One of Sardinia’s most interesting and distinctive indigenous red grape varieties, Cagnulari produces here a still wine with structure and an intense bouquet. The wine evolves from light wood and toasted aromas to elegant notes of Mediterranean scrub and spices, ending with ripe cherries and tobacco. On the palate, the acidity is pronounced and well integrated, followed by an elegant salinity and light tannin structure, with a long, minty finish.
- Santa Maria La Palma Akènta Sub Extra Dry Vermentino di Sardegna DOC: Produced using the Charmat method, this unique sparkling wine is aged underwater at a depth of 40 metres for 6-10 months. Compared to its cellar-aged counterpart, it develops a softer texture, with a delicate creaminess and very fine bubbles on the palate. Pleasant and refreshing, it is the perfect accompaniment to raw or steamed fish dishes!
This article was created as part of my participation in the Sparkling Wine competition of the CMB 2024 and reflects my opinion alone. The trip to Sardinia-Alghero was organized by the Concours Mondial du Bruxelles, Consorzio Vini di Sardegna, Alghero DOC.
Photos by Concours Mondial du Bruxelles or Nicole Wolbers.